From Persia to India: The enduring legacy of Irani chai | Food-wine News

Imagine yourself transported to the bustling streets of Mumbai. The air hangs thick with the cacophony of honking taxis, vendors hawking their wares, and the rhythmic clinking of spoons against glasses in countless chai stalls. But amid this symphony of sound, a different aroma cuts through – a rich, inviting fragrance that promises a potent and invigorating experience. This, my friend, is the call of Irani Chai.
This strong, sweet cuppa isn’t just a drink; it’s a legacy, a story of cultural fusion brewed over centuries.
The tale of Irani chai traces back to the 19th century, said Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi. Zoroastrian immigrants from Persia (present-day Iran) arrived in India, particularly in Mumbai, Pune, and Hyderabad.
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They brought with them their love for tea, a beverage deeply rooted in Persian culture and tradition. These enterprising individuals opened cafes, introducing not just their brewing techniques but also a taste of Persia to their new home.
From Persia to the Deccan
Irani cafes weren’t mere tea shops, they were social hubs. Here, as Chef Sokhi described, the robust Iranian black tea leaves met the rich, creamy milk and generous dollops of sugar favoured in India.
This cultural exchange birthed Irani chai, a unique blend that combined the strong Persian base with the sweet Indian indulgence.
Irani chai wasn’t just about taste; it was an experience. The cafes, often adorned with high ceilings, marble tabletops, and bentwood chairs, offered a haven for conversation, card games, and a taste of community. The iconic bun maska, a buttery, flaky bread, became the perfect companion to the strong chai.Story continues below this ad
A legacy in India
Opened in 1953, Yazdani Bakery is an Irani cafe or Persian style bakery in Mumbai, India. (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Irani Chai gained particular popularity in Hyderabad, Chef Sokhi explains. Here, it became synonymous with the famous Irani cafes that served it alongside Osmania biscuits, creating a unique cultural experience that blended Persian and Indian influences.
Irani Chai differs from regular Indian chai in a few notable ways, says Chef Sokhi. The preparation is traditionally brewed strong and simmered with mawa or khoya, resulting in a rich, creamy texture.
It’s often served in small cups, sometimes with a flourish where the tea is poured from a height to create froth. Unlike traditional Indian chai, Irani Chai tends to be less spicy and boasts a smoother, slightly sweeter taste because of the khoya in it, which is usually used for desserts.
The exact recipe hasn’t ever been decoded, closely held the Iranian cafes, so if you’re ever in Mumbai, Pune, or Hyderabad, seek out one. Immerse yourself in the horic ambiance and savour the taste of tradition.