This 24 karat gold Manipuri bridal ensemble is a crash course in Indian sartorial engineering

Robert Naorem has several years under his belt, dressing Manipuri brides to look their traditional best on their wedding days. Also part of his expertise, is continually attempting to ensure that classic Manipuri weaves enjoy some much-deserved national limelight. The Manipuri Kumin Potloi was modelled Urvashi Rautela for Robert Naorem: But this is not the first time the layman is hearing about it(Photos: Instagram/robertnaoremstudio, linlaishram) The latest effort in this regard has been the reported ramp debut of the age-old Manipuri Kumin Potloi with a heavy hand of opulence, courtesy of the 24k karat gold it carried. Actor Urvashi Rautela had the honour of modelling the same at the Global Fashion Festival 2024. But what is the Kumin Potloi? Very simply, it is the traditional attire donned Manipuri Hindu women for important cultural events as well as personal milestones such as when they tie the knot. The lore with regards to the birth of the dress goes back to Vaishnavite Meitei King Rajarshi Bhagyachandra who dreamt up its unique build. The cylindrical stiff skirt is the focal point of the ensemble, built of bamboo overlaid with satin. This understandably severely restricts movement and hence involves the dress being directly stitched onto the muse prior to its showcase. An Indian Express report has also decoded the intricate layout of jewellery which represents the headress of the ensemble, rather seminal to the final look. The central headpiece is called the kajenglei or leitreng while the hair bun stands adorned with the samjinam and samjithet. These necessarily stand encased with a veil, another important element of the Kumin Potloi. Coming back to the headpieces, gold and silver are a popular pick for the kajenglei or leitring while brass or jari ornaments are used for the bun. Red stones and silver jari also make for common elements. Additionally the head stands entirely encased in jewels right from the mini worn along the parting, to the karnal worn on the ears as well as the kulak flanking the parting. The mammoth effort then, that goes into perfectly crafting each Kumin Potloi has deservedly made it the subject of many a honour. This is where Hanjabam Radhe Devi comes in. Formerly a tea vendor, her passion for crafting Potlois has led her to being felicitated with a Padma Shri back in 2021 at 88 years of age. Lovingly called Abok Radhe, the Potloi Septi weaver was married off when she was all of 15. She chanced across her creative and entrepreneurial streak almost a decade later at 25. What started off as a mere effort to help her neighbour, with a lot of hard work of course, turned into her legacy. When she started her business of selling Potlois she used to earn a humble ₹500 per piece.  The journey to her craft however, was not an easy one. Abok Radhe’s husband at the time had been gravely against her taking the art up. Nevertheless, she persed and perfected her skills under the guidance of her guru Longjam Ongbi Priyasakhi. As per an Imphal Free Press report, her first reactiont to news of her being a Padma Shri recipient was as humble as ever. She said, “I was shocked and lost for a moment when my granddaughter informed me the news. I asked myself how am I conferred with the award? I had to sprinkle water in my head, wash my face and then I got back to my normal state again”. It is only to the credit of dedicated pioneers like Abok Radhe that such a complex craft has managed to sustain its legacy so far into the present. Hanjabam Radhe Devi was awarded the Padma Shri in 2021 for her unwavering dedication to crafting Potlois(Photo: Imphal Free Press) It must also be mentioned that Urvashi turning muse for Robert is not the first time the Manipuri Kumin Potloi has made the news. On November 29 last year, actor Randeep Hooda tied the knot with Lin Laishram in a traditional ceremony held in Imphal, Manipur. The photos shared the couple from the intimate do, feature Lin looking regal in a deep green, red and gold Kumin Potloi complete with a sheer, gold-lined white veil. The resurgence of the Manipuri Kumin Potloi in the conscience of the general public then, is an affirmative indication of India still being very appreciably rooted in the intricacy of tradition and culture.