What my kitchen taught me about Pakani cuisine: Lahori namak, Kasuri methi, and more | Food-wine News

For years, I’ve had a long-standing argument with a friend over whether there is such a thing as Pakani cuisine. His stance is that Pakan has no dinctive culinary identity – it’s all Indian food, or a mix of North-West Frontier and Afghani cuisine with minor tweaks, rebranded as Pakani. I disagree. Having cooked many dishes from Pakani recipes, I believe that while it may not boast entirely unique dishes, Pakani cuisine has a dinct flavour profile. It can be more robust, with a deeper use of whole spices like brown and green cardamom, and, of course, the country is the birthplace of my favourite aromatic herb, Kasuri methi.
There’s been a surge of anti-Pakan sentiment in recent weeks, but I take a slightly John Lennon-ish view – that there must be peace after a point. All the talk about Pakan made me think of the ingredients in my kitchen that hail from there and have become staples.
First up: Lahori namak – what the fancypants call the Himalayan rock salt. It’s a better alternative to regular table salt, especially good in salads since it has a delicate flavour of its own. Himalayan black salt or kala namak or Lahori namak is mined from the salt ranges in the Himalayan foothills, primarily in Pakan. It’s not just about the taste either – Lahori namak has a unique mineral composition. Unlike refined salt, which is stripped of its natural elements, this salt retains sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and iron. I don’t usually cook with it, but I do use it in salads, where its delicate umami flavour shines.
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It’s not just about the taste either – Lahori namak has a unique mineral composition. (Photo: Freepik)
Now to my favourite ingredient: Kasuri methi or dried fenugreek leaves. I had never really given its antecedents much thought, until the recent Indo-Pak tensions turned Facebook groups into battlegrounds. Someone posted a passionate appeal titled “Stop calling dried methi leaves Kasuri methi.” I, innocently, assumed it was a nomenclature debate, but no, the point was that we should stop using the word “Kasuri” because Kasuri methi comes from the Kasur region in Pakan, where unique soil conditions give the fenugreek leaves a particularly fragrant quality. It’s an ingredient I can’t recommend enough. A teaspoon is enough to elevate any curry or sabzi – just rub the dried leaves between your palms to release their oils, and add them at the end of cooking, almost like you would with fresh coriander. If you’re using Kasuri methi, skip the coriander or curry leaves.
Another Pakani pantry staple I swear : Shan masalas. Whether it’s biryani, kebabs, raan or chholey, if you want flavours that rival the best restaurant or even a top Amritsari dhaba, this is your shortcut. I’ve used Shan masalas since I started cooking. Each packet includes whole spices and pre-measured salt. If you’re not a confident cook or don’t want to experiment, just follow the instructions on the box, and you’ll feel like you’re a chef at a five-star North West Frontier Province restaurant.
Next week, I’ll be writing about the concept of makhas and bhortas from East Bengal, West Bengal and more.

Author of The Sweet Kitchen, and chef-owner of Food For Thought Catering … Read More