‘Designing for me has always been about dressing the mind and not the body’: Narendra Kumar

With an experience of over 20 years, Narendra Kumar understands the nitty-gritty of the ever evolving fashion industry, and hence, the need to experiment with newer trends and styles to keep up with the modern-day customer. But despite all the challenges and changes, the ace fashion designer — who has “worked in every aspect of the fashion industry” — describes his journey as “exhilarating”.

Talking about the same in detail, the fashion maestro opened up to about the many experiences that have shaped his journey, the changing scape of the fashion industry in India, his experience of working with Bollywood (celebrities and films), the approaches he adopts when designing for men and women, and the emerging trend of sustainability. Edited excerpts below.
You have been a part of the fashion industry for over two decades — how would you describe the journey?
In one word, exhilarating! Given the fact that I have worked in almost every aspect of the fashion industry, from being India’s first fashion editor for a magazine, teaching at NIFT, styling for films like Madhur Bhandarkar’s Fashion, and styling a whole host of celebrities, designing from couture to street, consulting with all leading brands in the country, being a photographer to being a filmmaker (India’s first fashion film to led in Official Selection in the Best Fashion Film category at the Berlin Fashion Film Festival), to being the Creative Director at Amazon Fashion and still loving the various roles that I play with more to come. Loving it.
In these years, in what ways would you say fashion has evolved; and it is for the good or bad?
The dynamics of fashion have been changing because of technological advancements, and more informed buying habits among consumers. The focus on sustainability and digitalisation has encouraged positive developments. It has challenged us to experiment with new styles and stay at par with trends to be able to suffice the demands of customers. We have started adopting newer design methods, and recycled materials, and are taking our brands to online platforms to reach a wider audience. The modern consumer has become extremely conscious of their fashion choices. They don’t just jump on the bandwagon; their shopping decisions rely so much on the research they do about the brand/designers, quality and style, collection reviews, availability, and pricing. Our approach is now more driven customer preferences than before.

But not only in the world of fashion, but you have also been a Bollywood styl in many films. How different is the experience?
The essential difference to me is the fact that, when I am doing a collection I am telling a story about the human condition in terms of how we are changing as a people, social anthropology, I create my own world and it’s my story, on the other hand when I am styling a film, I am enhancing the character of a director’s story which is equally rewarding.

Tell us about your latest collection for women for Amazon Fashion X RIVER Season 3. In what ways is it different from your previous collection?
The RIVER Season 3 collection on Amazon Fashion explores the world of contemporary fashion through three alternative trends that dominate the AW 22/23 Winter Festive Season. It takes you on a journey, from the plains of Central Asia to the Mountains of Peru, winding up in a boldly told graphic story. The collection will be focused on four stories: Floral Arabesque, Graphic, Paisley, and Geometric. This story is told through two main colour themes: burnt Earth in all its glory, consing of yellow, rust, sienna, ochre, nutmeg and earthy pastel; and a return to nature in all its wonder, with greens, teals, blue and sage. The silhouette for the collection is a statement in ease, with kurtas, dresses, tops and trousers to complete your look for the festive and travel season.

In all these years, what or who has been your biggest inspiration?
My muse has been my country, in the sense of how we have changed as people over the last two to three decades from the opening up of the economy in the early 90’s. Each and every collection has had a story with unique presentation, whether it’s about Article 66A of the Constitution of the country, how sport is redefining our country, how music has evolved, the growing prevalence of fake news (our brand FKNS), to the dystopian times we live in. Of course, I had my mentors at the beginning of my career, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Azzedine Alaia, Yoyjhi Yamamoto — designers known for their exceptional tailoring, some of whom I have had the pleasure of meeting in person.
You are one of the leading designers for men; how different is it designing for women and why? What are the basic dos and don’ts you keep in mind (or do you approach both in a similar way considering gender fluid fashion is gaining momentum in the country)?
Designing for me has always been about dressing the mind and not the body and taking them on a journey of self-expression. The female or male form does not matter much, more so today, given the changing times we live in. Gender fluidity is not limited to stereotypes we have, it’s also about our roles in life when it comes to our workplaces. I am passionate about designing irrespective of whether I am designing a collection for men or women’s wear. I believe the only dos and don’ts are to understand the requirements of the customers you are planning to target with your designs. Fashion is all about being confident and comfortable in what you wear. Hence, my focus has been to create apparels, regardless of gender, that are not just in line with current styles and trends but make my customers feel assured and happy.

Sustainability became a huge talking point in the last two years. Where do you think the Indian fashion industry ranks on that l?
A growing awareness and concern about the influence of the fashion industry on the environment has emerged in the last few years. This has shifted focus on driving sustainable practices and offering eco-friendly fashion and beauty alternatives. There are multiple Indian brands and designer labels that are ensuring that they are well-equipped using recycled products, multi-purpose clothing and naturally sourced materials, among others, to deliver products that are in compliance with the sustainability standards. I believe that Indian fashion is taking this as an opportunity to ensure a greener environment while offering latest, quality fashion.

Five wardrobe must-haves, according to you.
Wardrobe essentials today are very different as opposed to even two years ago during the pre-pandemic days; they are dictated occasions for most of us. While we are finally getting out of the pandemic, the best way to express this freedom is through colour or print. Whether you are wearing a kurta/kurti for the festive occasion, kaftan for easy travel to a resort for a destination wedding, or upgrading your casual style with dresses and tops that incorporate the easy comfort of our pandemic days, statement prints create a style statement for the season. A woman’s wardrobe should have a bright printed kurta set that is easy to wear at any puja or occasion. You can never replace a sari with any other outfit, but you can and must style it well to add variety to your look. Some other fashion pieces that are timeless and everyone should have in their wardrobe would be a plain white kurta, black trousers, and a blue jeans.

This festive season, what would you recommend and why?
Honestly, I would always recommend wearing what makes you feel confident and comfortable. You can always mix and match your outfits to bring some freshness to your look. When you are wearing a saree, you can wrap around an embellished belt that will give a nice tw to the look. If you are wearing an elegant yet simple kurta, like a floral one from my collection for Amazon Fashion X RIVER Season 3, then you must complete your look with an embroidered or embellished dupatta. Also, make sure you are not compromising on accessories, they will enhance your appearance. For men, add some colourful straight cut, easy to wear kurtas in your festive wardrobe, this is one the most sophicated looks.
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