‘I am tired of seeing beautiful Indian clothes relegated to weddings’: Fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani
That Tarun Tahiliani is a man of vision is common knowledge. The master couturier, who has been touted as the king of drapes, however, doesn’t believe in making a monolith of his vision. As fluid as his saris and lehengas that have graced the who’s who of Bollywood, his vision is as reverent of past traditions as they are enthusiastic of future possibilities.
Tahiliani presented his luxury pret collection at the first fully physical FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week since the pandemic forced a digital switch. The show’s energy was designed to match the collection, which was modern and global as opposed to Tahiliani’s signature regal and ornate. While the silhouettes were pared down to be more minimal, no such edit applied to the opulence of the craft.
The concept of luxury pret, Tahiliani says, “has always been extremely close to my heart, and this is a collection which would speak to the future generations who have an approach which is much more experimental as it marries India’s beautiful craft and heritage with comfort and accessibility.”
In conversation with , Tahiliani talks about how digital shows will never match physical shows, pivoting more to ‘fashion’ from ‘bridal’, and what lies ahead.
Excerpts
How does it feel to be back to a physical fashion week with full vigour? Did you miss it, or did digital feel comfortable?
It felt absolutely fantastic to be back for a physical show, that too outdoors, against the beautiful backdrop of the Dhyan Chand Stadium and the India Gate on one side. The show was all about high energy with live music Ma Maiza, castanets and full scores composed. We had a small circle in the centre, around which the models walked the ramp. We wanted the show to be something that spoke to everyone on different levels and move them and I think we were able to justify that sentiment completely. The energy and madness of a physical show is unparalleled and a digital show can never match that.
So far, how has 2022 been for you?
2022 has been great so far. The return to a physical show at the FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week has obviously been very exciting and that too with a luxury pret collection presented NEXA such as the Global Indian, a concept which has always been fascinating and close to my heart. I am extremely happy with the way the collection came out and along with that it was my son’s wedding as well, in the same week as the Lakme Fashion week. I complicated my life with a crazy schedule but, whatever said and done, I am satisfied with the collection and to finally allow the world to see our vision.
Tell us about your luxury pret collection. What is it rooted in?
I have always loved luxury pret but, due to the pandemic because we had no production, all our faculties and focus went into bridal. However, we are back and how with our India Modern collection, Global Indian. We have worked with many interesting fabrics in this collection ranging from crinkled, tulles, poplins, lycra, sushi voile, some shaded georgette and heavy satin too. You can expect a modern fit in this collection where we have even worked with the exquisite mushroo, woven in Banaras and pashminas, woven with a metallic thread more for use in saris, shawls and capes.
We are experimenting and going ahead with a few of our older techniques such as rangrez, where we now have the brocade strips that are hand woven for us, seamed on to gillets, trousers, cholis and in spite of being ready to wear pieces, are super luxe. We also have our foil jerseys that take our prints. The separates are so easy to mix and match and make them luxury pret. When you see the pieces, you will see how easy they are to be worn for a Mehendi or even a Sangeet if you are looking for something with more embroidery. The menswear conss of bandhgalas, sherwanis, bundi jackets, dhoti pants, pyjamas, and churidars.
You called it your “new streamlined, sleek, aerodynamic, India modern collection for the global Indian”. What drove this vision?
Our luxury prêt collection is a true representation of India Modern and global wherein you rightly said, one can expect a new streamlined, sleek and aerodynamic collection with modern cuts and details, unusual textures with generous use of prints, zari threads and resham. The concept of luxury pret has always been extremely close to my heart and this is a collection which would speak to the future generations who have an approach which is much more experimental as it marries India’s beautiful craft and heritage with comfort and accessibility. The lockdown forced us to face the harsh reality and understand the need for sustainability and embrace it whole heartedly. Therefore, rather than selecting an entire outfit, people are now keener towards buying separates with greater wearability which can be worn in numerous ways and paired with different garments. So, we thought there is no better time to finally return with our vision of luxury pret.
How does this luxury pret collection answer to the evolved definitions of luxury over the pandemic?
The pandemic has undoubtedly brought a massive change in the way people shop as well as in the design industry. With the lockdown forcing us to stay at home, a great shift was seen towards athleisure clothing, which in my opinion most of the big fashion houses would have to ultimately incorporate and shift towards. Fashion is becoming more sustainable and versatile too with customers wanting to buy pieces which can be worn in multiple way rather than being a part of a singular set. The lockdown forced us to accept our individuality and showcase it for the world to see rather than succumbing to the varied norms and trends that the society tries to force upon us. Therefore, it is extremely refreshing to see people more in tune with their needs and how they wish to present themselves. With this new collection, this evolved need would be satisfied, with separates which are extremely easy to pair up with different pieces.
The brand is separating its bridal and fashion lines. What caused that decision? Is there one you enjoy more than the other as a designer?
It is not that I do not like bridal, however, there is always that added factor that it starts feeling too much like a costume. Fashion is something I have always loved more. One day you will be a black-tie star and next day, you will be wearing 30kg clothes! My problem starts with this sort of excess. Thankfully, one good thing that the pandemic brought was this shift towards lighter and more wearable clothes, some people accepted it, but some still have not.
The world seems more normal than a few months ago and people are enthusiastic about dressing up again! How does this shift inspire/affect you?
The world opening up again is obviously very exciting, not only for me but for the fashion industry. There has been a shift as to how people have started seeing fashion. They are more in tune with themselves and on the lookout for pieces that bring out their personality. People are also more conscious towards the impact of their choices and have started seeing sustainability as a need. For me, sustainability is not necessarily buying a little piece of handloom with kantha, sustainability is using what you buy to death, using it so that you are not flippant and you buy things of quality at whatever level and you use and reuse them. I am tired of seeing beautiful Indian clothes relegated to weddings. So, we are saying, wear your saris with a pantsuit, wear your choli with a pair of palazzos and we are giving young girls and men, ideas on how to use and reuse their beautiful pieces so that it therefore, becomes sustainable. They buy less and they use it in many different ways and we go back to a world which is not about mass consumption, but less and beautiful consumption.
What are you looking forward to exploring this year with your upcoming collections?
I hate to say this but the pandemic with all its devastation gave us a lot of time to think, reflect, be still and also know what we value because when you perfectly know what you value, that is what you try to build on. Engaging with the crafts and community is the most important thing to me and marrying the same with technology and construction. To carry this language and message to the Indians and to the world, that is precisely why we are here. I am very happy with the luxury pret collection that we showcased at LFW however, nothing will leave me finished and satisfied, no matter what the price point is in the market.
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