‘Sustainability movement is the only right path, but transparency is a challenge’: Sri Lankan chef Gaushan De Silva

Gaushan De Silva once served as the private chef at the royal palace of Jordan. Born and raised in Sri Lanka, he now spearheads the kitchen at Aragu, an award-winning restaurant at Maldives’ Velaa island resort where “sustainability is considered at par with culinary art”. In between, he spent more than two decades travelling through Europe to hone his skills, working with some of the best restaurants including Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee which has three Michelin stars, Edouard Loubet’s eponymous restaurant in Bonnieux, and the famed Noma in Copenhagen.
As he landed in Delhi to create a select dinner menu at The Lodhi this weekend, we spoke to him about the sustainability movement in food, his Indian influences, and if veganism is the way forward. Edited excerpts:
When was the last time you were in India? What were the things you kept in mind for the Delhi menu?
I have been to India many times; the last was in mid-April when I was able to try some amazing restaurants here. The inspiration behind my menus is the diversity of Indian cuisine; not just one type but a combination of tastes from all over the Indian subcontinent. Every village across every state has its own culinary flair, and hopefully, I will keep coming back for more such experiences.
Blue Fin Tuna and Hamachi avocado, apple salad, roasted sesame dressing
Since you have had exposure in kitchens around the world, what is the one thing that works everywhere – a dish or flavour? And the one thing that’s always different or difficult?I think it’s important to always understand the guests and their specific preferences and tastes. In certain parts of the world, you need to be careful with spices and chili, something that we like to use frequently on our side. My philosophy of simplicity, honouring fresh and local ingredients in combination with top-quality of cooking is always appreciated globally.
Organic Tofu quinoa-crusted, edamame dumpling, shiitake mushroom
Have you found time to travel around in India or even in Delhi a bit? What were the takeaways?
I like to experience as many culinary adventures as possible during my travels and even if this specific trip to India has been much too short, I’ve been able to try some traditional Indian food over the week. I must also say that India has cleverly created a tasteful expression of local ingredients. Spices and unique cooking methods are also my inspiration when I design the menu.
Chilean Seabass pachio crusted, green onions, creamy polenta
Since Maldives gets guests from across nationalities and age groups, how did you create a menu at Aragu that works with and for everyone?
The Velaa island has three different restaurants, all with their own flair and menu. Athiri, our all-day diner, has chefs from 14 nationalities. We are currently in the process of building a new wellness restaurant with a focus of spa, detox and healthy dishes for mind, body, and soul, as we see this as a growing trend globally. The diversity of vegetarianism steeped in Indian cuisine has a big role in my wellness menu. In general, we always work on menus that can cater to a broad clientele but can always be customised to preferences.
Consommé, tomato and prosciutto, scallop and prawn dumpling and melon
Could you talk about the sustainability movement in food? Is the movement itself sustainable?
The trend of many restaurants today is to use locally grown organic produce or even claim that all their food is coming directly from farm to table. I would like to believe that the sustainability movement is the only right path for the future and the only challenge is transparency, where the movement is used more for marketing purposes rather than trying to make a difference – for our planet, local communities and our own health.
Chickpea and Lenil croquette, aubergine purée, tomato marmalade
How sustainable is Indian cuisine?
Indian practice has always been to eat locally grown, seasonal produce and also be resourceful. Indians are also concerned about food wastage and make efforts to use the excess food repurposing the item, which should be a role model globally.
Chef Gaushan De Silva
Do vegetarians and vegans score over non-vegetarians when it comes to sustainability?
As expected, our vegans scored the lowest emissions, even though meats provide certain nutrients that plants don’t, eating meat isn’t necessary for your health or survival. With appropriate planning and supplements, plant-based diets can provide the nutrients your body needs and be a great move towards a more sustainable lifestyle.
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